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Beyond the Port: the Beauty and History of the Holyhead Breakwater in Wales
Updated: Jun 16
The Irish Sea crashes against the rugged coastline of Anglesey, Wales. Amidst this dramatic scenery lies a man-made marvel: the Holyhead Breakwater. Stretching out for over 1.5 miles, it's not just the longest breakwater in Europe, but a place where history whispers on the salty breeze and breathtaking views leave you speechless.
For over 150 years this Victorian feat of engineering has protected the Port of Holyhead, pound-for-pound the busiest UK port for Irish freight traffic. This post delves into the unique story of the Holyhead Breakwater, exploring its role as a guardian of a vital port, its fascinating past, an intriguing castle-like ruin, and the scenic beauty that unfolds along its path.
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What is the Holyhead Breakwater?
The Holyhead Breakwater is a massive Victorian structure, completed in 1873, located at the northwestern tip of Holyhead in Anglesey, North Wales. It's effectively a giant seawall, stretching an impressive 1.7 miles (2.7 kilometers), making it the longest breakwater in the United Kingdom and Europe.
Its primary purpose is to shelter the busy Port of Holyhead from the strong westerly winds and rough seas of the Irish Sea, ensuring safe passage for ferries traveling between Wales and Ireland. The port is the second busiest roll on / roll off port in the UK, with millions of tonnes of goods flowing through it every year. It is also a major transport hub for thousands of passengers from the UK to Ireland and Europe.
Despite its industrial use, the Holyhead Breakwater offers stunning coastal scenery. Visitors can walk along a promenade that runs along the top, enjoying panoramic views of the Irish Sea, the port, and even the distant Skerries islands on a clear day. The area is also designated as part of an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB).
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Why was the Holyhead Breakwater built?
The Holyhead Breakwater was built for two main reasons:
⪢ To Create a Safe Harbor: The old port at Holyhead was exposed to northerly winds and rough seas, making it difficult for ships, especially those reliant on sails, to enter safely. During bad weather, journeys would be disrupted, and passengers and cargo might even have to be diverted to a less convenient port.
⪢ To Accommodate Increased Sea Traffic: With the rise of steam power and increased trade between Wales and Ireland in the 19th century, Holyhead needed a larger and more sheltered harbor. The breakwater's construction aimed to create a massive, calm-water space, called a roadstead, where hundreds of vessels could safely anchor, regardless of weather conditions. This significantly boosted the capacity and efficiency of the port.
The history of the Holyhead Breakwater
The Holyhead Breakwater, a leviathan of stone stretching over 1.5 miles, is more than just a barrier against the Irish Sea. It's a testament to Victorian engineering prowess, a vital cog in maritime trade, and a silent witness to history. Let's delve into the fascinating story of this iconic structure:
⪢ From Necessity to Innovation: The Birth of the Breakwater (1840s-1870s)
The 19th century saw a surge in maritime traffic and trade between Wales and Ireland. Despite numerous land transportation upgrades, such as the London Holyhead Road, marine traffic remained a problem. Holyhead's existing port was exposed to the elements, making safe passage a gamble. It also required frequent repairs and dredging due to its heavy use. Recognizing a need for improvement to keep the goods flowing and avoid trade going elsewhere, a plan for a massive breakwater was conceived in the 1840s. Construction began in 1847 under the leadership of J.M. Rendel.
Building such a behemoth demanded innovation. A broad gauge railway was used to carry more than seven million tonnes of stone from the quarries on Holyhead Mountain to the working areas. Shaped 10-tonne limestone blocks formed the outer wall, while a core of rubble was created by dumping stones from ships and tipping them from the shore. Notably, divers working in specialized submarine bells played a crucial role in laying the foundation underwater, using picks, hammers, and even controlled underwater explosions. Up to 1,300 men were employed during the work; 40 tragically died during construction.
The project wasn't without its challenges. In 1851, workers at the breakwater and nearby quarries went on strike, protesting the use of Irish laborers. This unfortunate incident highlights the social tensions of the era.
Despite the hurdles, the breakwater steadily grew. Following Rendel's death in 1856, John Hawkshaw took over, and by 1873, the marvel was complete. The same Prince of Wales (Albert Edward) who witnessed its early stages officially opened the New Harbour, protected by the breakwater, in 1880. He was the eldest son of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert and later became King Edward VII in 1901 upon his mother's death.
⪢ A Haven in Wartime: The Breakwater in World War II
The 20th century brought a new chapter for the breakwater. During World War II, the sheltered harbor it created became a crucial asset. The Royal Dutch Navy, having fled Nazi occupation, found refuge in Holyhead. The breakwater's role shifted from facilitating trade to safeguarding allied ships.
The area around the breakwater also saw defensive measures implemented. Lookouts were stationed, and anti-aircraft guns and pillboxes were positioned to protect the port from potential aerial attacks. The breakwater itself, a testament to human ingenuity, stood strong throughout the conflict, a silent guardian during a tumultuous period.
⪢ A Legacy of Stone: The Breakwater Today
Today, the Holyhead Breakwater continues to serve its original purpose. It protects the port, now a vital ferry link between Wales and Ireland. Its historical significance is recognized, with the breakwater and its lighthouse being listed structures.
Beyond its utilitarian role, the breakwater has become a scenic attraction. The Wales Coast Path stretches along its landward end, offering walkers breathtaking views of the Irish Sea and the distant mountains of Snowdonia. The disused quarries that provided stone for the breakwater are now part of Breakwater Country Park, a haven for nature lovers.
The Holyhead Breakwater stands as a powerful symbol of human ambition and engineering skill. Its story reflects the changing tides of history, from facilitating trade to providing wartime shelter. As visitors walk along its path, they experience not just a scenic wonder but a tangible connection to the past. Since November 2014, concrete blocks have been placed at the entrance to block traffic. However, the breakwater is still accessible to walkers.
The Holyhead Lighthouse
Completed in 1873, the lighthouse was likely designed by Victorian civil engineer John Hawkshaw, coinciding with the final stages of the breakwater's construction. Unlike many round lighthouses, it's a unique three-story, square-shaped tower. This design choice offered more comfortable living quarters for the lighthouse keepers.
⪢ A Guiding Light
The lighthouse's primary function was to guide ships safely into the newly formed harbor created by the breakwater. Its light would have been particularly important during foggy conditions or nighttime crossings.
⪢ Technological Advancements
In the 19th century, the lighthouse would have used an oil lamp system with lenses to project a powerful beam. Over time, technology evolved, and the lighthouse eventually transitioned to more modern lighting systems.
⪢ Manned to Automated
The lighthouse was initially manned by lighthouse keepers who ensured the light functioned properly. However, advancements in automation led to its conversion to an automatic operation in November 1961.
⪢ Architectural Significance
The Holyhead Breakwater Lighthouse is considered an architectural landmark. Its square design and location as part of the ambitious Victorian engineering project to create "harbors of refuge" contribute to its historical significance.
Today, the lighthouse stands as a silent sentinel beside the breakwater, a reminder of the ingenuity and dedication involved in creating this vital maritime structure. While no longer manned, it continues to be an essential navigational aid and a captivating piece of maritime history!
The Castle-like Soldiers Point House, Hotel and World War 2 Pillbox
Located on the lead up to the Breakwater, built with local rubble and slate roofs, Soldiers Point House has a distinctive castellated design, featuring turrets and battlements. This "folly tower" style gives it a castle-like appearance, making it a unique landmark on the Holyhead coastline. It was constructed in 1849 by Charles Rigby, the contractor for the Holyhead Breakwater, for his own residence. Based on two L-plan structures, the main house faced south-east.
Rigby was not just a contractor, but also an Anglesey Magistrate. At the time, he commanded the 2nd Anglesey Artillery Volunteers, who he grouped together from his breakwater workers. During World War II, the strategic location of Soldiers Point House wasn't overlooked. One of the towers of the house's castellated screen wall was converted into a pillbox. Pillboxes were small, fortified structures designed to provide a defensive position for troops. This modification highlights the importance of the Holyhead Breakwater and the surrounding area during the war, as they aimed to protect the port from potential attacks.
In 1950, Soldiers Point House transitioned into a hotel. This would have capitalized on the growing popularity of seaside resorts and the potential for attracting visitors interested in the scenic beauty of the area. Unfortunately, details about the hotel's operation and its eventual closure are scarce.
In July 1994 the building was Grade II listed, with plans to turn it into a museum. Sadly, in 2011, the already neglected structure suffered a major setback when it was heavily damaged by a fire. The fire damage requires significant restoration, and its future use remains unclear. In June 2023, it made the Victorian Society's Top 10 Endangered Buildings List, with growing calls for the building to be restored to its former glory.
"Soldiers' Point really needs some love and some help. It’s sad to see this remarkable monument to engineering falling into disrepair. It’s not too late. It is a remarkable place. It is surrounded by history and close to a remarkable engineering landmark.
Griff Rhys Jones, Victorian Society President
Find more photos from inside on derelictplaces.co.uk
A £40 million refurbishment (of the Breakwater)
In October 2023, the Welsh First Minister Mark Drakeford announced a £40 million funding package from the Welsh Government. The £40m package, made up of a £20m loan and a £20m grant, will go towards the estimated £110m cost of refurbishing the Breakwater. Stena Line Ports Ltd, which operates the Port of Holyhead, has been lobbying for support as the Breakwater is gradually being eroded by the Irish Sea. The stability of the breakwater is now under threat, with an increasing probability of a breach in the structure occurring during storm conditions.
Holyhead Port is an important asset to North Wales. This £40m investment in the breakwater will help ensure the port’s future and protect jobs. The port is of vital strategic importance. It plays a crucial role in the delivery of economic prosperity for the region and is also a key part of our transport infrastructure.
Wales First Minister Mark Drakeford
150 years after its groundbreaking construction, it will be fascinating to see how our modern day technology will be used to restore this crucial piece of infrastructure. We will try and keep this blog up-to-date with its progress!
How to get to Holyhead Breakwater
There are a couple of ways to get to Holyhead Breakwater depending on where you are coming from. Here are your options:
⪢ By Train
While there is no direct train service to Holyhead Breakwater, you can take a train to Holyhead itself and then take a taxi or bus to the breakwater. The train journey from London Euston to Holyhead takes about 3 hours 40 minutes.
⪢ By Ferry
If you are coming from Ireland, you can take a ferry to Holyhead port and then take a taxi or bus to the breakwater. The ferry journey from Dublin to Holyhead takes about 3 hours 15 minutes.
⪢ Car
This is the most flexible option, especially if you are coming from outside of Wales. The drive from Bewdley to Holyhead Breakwater is around 3 hours 12 minutes via the A55.
Parking is available for free just in front of the Soldier's Point House, but is limited. You need to enter via an open gate which you will see to the right hand side on your approach, with a 'Stena Line' sign on it.
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Our Holyhead Breakwater experience rating
The Holyhead Breakwater is a great place to include in a day trip itinerary to Holyhead itself, but maybe not as a single destination. The waters here are stunning and the lighthouse is very cool, especially given that it is a unique square shape. But unless you are in to fishing, there is not really much else to do here at this specific point, other than that very long hike along the promenade of the Breakwater.
Most people include this with a trip to the picturesque South Stack Lighthouse in Anglesey, which we were going to do, but we chose to go to some castles instead! We would recommend coming here for an hour or two, grabbing your photos and enjoying the water, but after that, head into the town or venture around Anglesey itself.
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