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Discover Tskaltubo, an urbex playground of abandoned hotels and sanatoriums
Updated: Aug 6
One of our most epic adventures yet, we explore this crumbling yet alluring collection of vast dilapidated Sanatoriums and Bathhouses that lie abandoned in the spa resort of Tskaltubo in the country of Georgia. Our day trip adventure saw us check out no less than 5 buildings in this sprawling complex of Soviet history.
Tskaltubo is a once-popular spa resort located in the Imereti region of west-central Georgia. It has a unique geology and an abundance of radio-carbonate mineral springs which were known as 'waters of immortality' by locals as far back as the 7th century. These springs have a natural temperature of 35 degrees Celsius (91 Fahrenheit), meaning no requirement for heating.
The resort attracted over 125,000 visitors a year in the Soviet era, in comparison to barely a thousand now. There were 19 Sanatoriums and 9 public Bathhouses at its peak, offering treatments such as balneotherapy and speleotherapy.
After the collapse of the Soviet Union the Sanatoriums and Bathhouses of Tskaltubo were closed and much of the contents of value were taken back to Russia during the de-occupation. What remained was looted and stripped of useful materials by locals and IDPs (Internally Displaced People) before being left largely abandoned, with many Georgians seeing the buildings as negative symbols of Russian rule. Despite severe damage from the elements these buildings are a fascinating glimpse back to what once was.
Many of the Tskaltubo Sanatoria have been partially inhabited having been turned into makeshift homes for IDP's from the war in Abkhazia in 1992. Up to 10,000 people were moved here at the time and even today around 500 families still live in these buildings in very poor conditions. The attempts by the government to either house them or make their current circumstances better have sadly proved to be lacklustre at best.
There is some hope for the restoration of this once thriving town with the government looking to encourage private ownership, development and restoration. More about that later, or skip straight to it here.
Read on for our photo and video highlights, the history of this fascinating town, and tips on how and when you can discover the urbex playground that is Tskaltubo, Georgia.
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The history of Tskaltubo
Tskaltubo acquired the function of being a balneology resort in 1920. Building started in 1926 and by 1931 it had officially become a spa resort by decree of the Georgian government. In 1950 architects I.Zaalishvili and V.Kedia set about the task of building sanatoriums around a local park and that is the layout you still see today.
The town was not just popular with the public but also the government elite and its most infamous visitor was none other than Joseph Stalin, who came here several times and even had his own personal bathhouse, no 6. This is actually still in use and was built directly above a mineral source. There is a famous mosaic in his private bath that you can visit should you wish to. He had a summer house (dacha) and several other bathhouses built exclusively for him, and you can see us venture into his complex in our YouTube video.
The mineral waters of Tskaltubo lose their 'healing' properties very quickly after they leave the ground and cannot be pumped or bottled. 9 of the Bathhouses are located in the central park due to the high concentration of springs in this area.
Many people were actually mandated treatment here from across the USSR and there was even a direct train at one point. You would be forgiven for thinking it was a place reserved for the elite due to the grandiose architecture and luxury construction but all workers were entitled to 'rest and leisure' time here. They were often given all expense paid trips lasting up to 3 weeks which was no doubt gleefully accepted as the reputation of the town grew.
Nowadays the town seems to be existing in a perpetual state of uncertainty; it is often thought of as abandoned despite growing calls for it to be re-developed. It will forever remain a symbol of Soviet neoclassicism, from an era of state-sponsored rest and relaxation. The dismantling of the town was tragic, but perhaps there is still time to restore these historic buildings to former glories before nature truly does reclaim them for good.
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How to travel to Tskaltubo
We were staying in nearby Kutaisi, which is where most people usually base themselves before heading to Tskaltubo for a day trip. Kutaisi is 10 miles (16.5km) away so bus / car journeys only take around 25-30 minutes.
We have read that the Marshrutka (bus / minivan) costs 2 GEL ($0.71 USD) and usually you pay the driver upon boarding. If you prefer a taxi you will pay a bit more, around 15 GEL ($5.36 USD).
The Marshrutka numbers you will need are no 30 & no 34 and you catch them from Kutaisi Central Bus Station. They will run alongside the central park of Tskaltubo so you can hop out pretty much anywhere there.
Best time to visit Tskaltubo
June to August is the hottest time of the year in Tskaltubo, with temperatures averaging 27+ degrees Celsius (80.6F). April, May and October are good times to go if you do not want to walk around in the sweltering heat with temperatures in these months closer to 20 degrees Celsius (68F).
Tskaltubo experiences most of its annual rainfall between October and January. October should be okay but we would avoid the winter months when considering urban exploring here. We visited at the start of January and it was wet and cold. We did not have any major issues but it was very muddy and slippery in places. You have been warned!
● June - August - The hottest months
● April, May & October - Avoid the heat
● October - January - The most rainfall
● November - March - Winter months
How safe is Tskaltubo - things to watch out for
As a given with any type of urban exploration of abandoned buildings, doing so is at your own risk. Many of these buildings are in pretty poor condition and you will definitely need to watch out for random holes in the ground, rotting floorboards and compromised flooring in general.
There is an incredible amount of debris including broken glass so it is highly advised that you wear closed-top sensible footwear. Watch your step and be careful on stairs too as many of them have no railings and are typically marble (which makes them very slippery when wet).
There were a fair few street dogs roaming around but as with the rest of Georgia they very rarely pose any threat. We did come across one dog who was particularly territorial when we were close to some outdoor mosaics by Sanatorium Gelati; we just maintained a good distance and had no issues.
We would say that as visitors we felt pretty safe in Tskaltubo; any locals we encountered seemed a little curious but generally quite accustomed to people with cameras. As some of the sanatoria are 'off the beaten path' you may often find yourself in remote areas so it is probably a good idea to go with a travel buddy just for peace of mind. That being said in our time there and in all of our research we have never heard of anyone having an issue.
How much time (and money) you need in Tskaltubo
Many of the Sanatoriums and hotels are fairly close together however Tskaltubo is deceptively bigger than the maps suggest. The fact that we only managed 5 buildings in almost 7 hours should give you an idea. We would recommend at least 2 full days if you want to explore them all; even that may be a little bit tight.
As far as money goes - you really do not need any. None of the buildings are guarded or have entrance fees so all you might want to bring with you is something for a bite to eat.
What we explored in Tskaltubo
We could have easily spent a couple of days here and most likely will when we return to Georgia one day. We barely managed to see a quarter of the buildings in the 7 hours or so we spent exploring. What we did see was a real treat however we are in no doubt that there is much more to discover here.
⪢ Sanatorium Tbilisi
One of the largest of all of the Sanatoriums in Tskaltubo, Tbilisi has 7 floors and accommodated over 700 beds in its heyday. Built in 1951, this was one of the most popular given its location right in the centre of town.
The once grand entrance is in a poor state but you can still get a great idea of just how beautiful this building was, and in many ways still is. The lichen covered balustrades add to the mysterious allure as you climb the stairs to be greeted by two winged creature statues, still intact and standing watch over visitors.
Inside the building the remnants of marble floors and decorated ceilings still shine through the decay and disrepair. The central courtyard retains a unique beauty amongst its old stone columns and arched windows and was one of our favourite areas. This was our first stop in Tskaltubo and certainly gave us a solid glimpse as to what to expect from the rest of the day!
Please note that Sanatorium Tbilisi home to some of Georgia's Internal Displaced Persons (IDPs) as mentioned earlier. There were a fair few people about when we visited; they did not seem to mind us poking around and we did feel safe. However we decided to just explore the ground floor and courtyard as many of the corridors seemed blocked off / occupied.
⪢ Sanatorium Gelati
In 2021 this Sanatorium was granted the protected status of cultural heritage and in comparison to the others we saw, we can understand why. It is located near Baratashvili Street, just a short walk from Sanatorium Tbilisi. It was opened in 1964 after almost 15 years of construction.
Sanatorium Gelati specialized in arthrological and neurological diseases for mothers and children and was one of the most unique in the area, owing to its medieval Georgian ecclesiastical architecture. This controversially went against the grain of the Soviet modernist style so typically used in construction in Georgia at the time.
Gelati has some lovely features to see, with ornate balustrades, columns and coving in many of the rooms. Some of the upper levels are blocked off but you can gain access to the domed roof which offers a great view of the main courtyard and on this level you will also see the beautiful belvedere which is surprisingly well preserved. We could not get to it but we can only imagine how good the view of the town would be from up there.
IDPs are living in Sanatorium Gelati so please be mindful. They are welcoming but please do respect their space. Most of the inhabited corridors have rugs and makeshift doors and we did not encroach or film them.
⪢ Sanatorium Medea
Perhaps one of the most beautiful of all of the Sanatoriums in Tskaltubo, Medea is striking and imposing from the moment you lay eyes on it. A long, wide lamppost lined pathway leads up to a stunning façade of intricate colonnades and archways. Close to the central park and local museum, it is easy to get to and is one of our top picks to see in Tskaltubo.
You are able to access the roof above the main entrance and from there the striking colonnades seem to transport you to another world. It is easy to see why this building is synonymous with pictures of Tskaltubo, even if the rest of the building is not as impressive. There is a statue clad fountain in the rear courtyard that is definitely worth a look though.
There are staircases either side of the main entrance which take you to the roof although be careful; there are no railings, marble treads and plenty of leaking water. There are also many IDPs living here and as you go up the levels you will find much evidence of this, although we did not see anyone while we were there.
The Georgian National Agency of State Property bought Sanatorium Medea for just over $2million USD back in April 2022. The sanatorium has been granted the status of a real cultural heritage monument and under the terms of the sale the new owner must arrange a hotel complex of at least 120 rooms within 60 months. After decades of procrastination and inaction, this sale may finally be the turning point for Medea. It may be worth prioritising a visit to this Sanatorium before it is too late to see it in this enchanting condition.
⪢ Sanatorium Sakartvelo
With its original (now synonymous) rooftop sign still intact, Sanatorium Sakartvelo sits atop a hillside and is visible from a distance due to its height and modular style. It was built in the 1970's and is far more modern in its design. It holds the largest amount of IDP inhabitants and unfortunately we were swiftly denied access by the locals after making our way up the stairs to the main entrance.
Amongst the rubble of this crumbling building there is an incredibly well preserved mosaic which is the main attraction here. It is tricky to get to as you need to walk along the side through the mud and overgrowth to get to it at the rear. There is also a large swimming pool featuring a similar mosaic although this is hard to see beneath the dirt and rubbish.
⪢ Bathhouse No 8
We absolutely loved this Bathhouse, despite its dilapidated ramshackle state. It is one of the most well known of all of the Bathhouses in Tskaltubo because of its unique 'UFO' shape. Inside you are greeted with almost flower petal-like shaped bath areas separated into quadrants by concrete and tiled walls depicting running deer and other animals.
It is unclear whether the roof was enclosed at some point but thankfully without one it has allowed nature to take over; the hanging vines add such a dramatic effect to this space. One can only imagine what it must have been like to look up to the stars at night or to the bright blue sky during the day in this epic space. It made for a fantastic drone worthy moment too - don't forget to check it out over on YouTube.
Bathhouse Number 8 was built in 1959 and it was a public bathhouse intended for the proletariat (the collective working class). You will find it in the central park area, close to Bathhouse 6. The surrounding area is quite overgrown but access is fairly straightforward.
Your interactive map of Tskaltubo's Sanatoriums
Tap the map below to plan your Tskaltubo adventure. As you will see, most of the Sanatoriums are located within walking distance of each other although with ample parking you can just as easily drive around too.
Also check out this map from the Ministry of Economy and Sustainable Development of Georgia. It is from a full PDF guide that includes information on the location, history and status of the Sanatoriums and Bathhouses. I wish we had found this before we visited!
The future of Tskaltubo
In July 2022 Vice Prime Minister, Minister of Economy and Sustainable Development Levan Davitashvili, announced 'New Life of Tskaltubo'. This is a large-scale investment project aimed at making Tskaltubo the health and wellness capital of Europe. The landscape may well change here; after years of political wrangling about the future of the town it finally seems like something is happening.
“Tskaltubo is our unique historical heritage. Unfortunately, in 1990s, the resort lost its glory, many things were destroyed during this period, but we still have a chance to preserve this unique cultural heritage and restore it in a way that will really bring new life to Tskaltubo,”
Read more about the rebirth of Tskaltubo here
This has been talked about for many years so it is unlikely works will commence any time soon. Typically these things take a long time to get off the ground in Georgia as we have mentioned earlier. Whether these bold plans ever come to fruition is not something we would bet our house on! That being said, it does add a tad of urgency to your plans if you really want to visit Tskaltubo.
Watch our experience in Tskaltubo on YouTube
Our very first Urbex video, we have some special drone footage of these epic buildings courtesy of our awesome friend Adam, who was also our road trip driver! There is also a sneak peak of our accommodation, and other highlights including a walk in the local park near Bathhouse No 8.
If you enjoy our video and want to follow more of our adventures please do like and subscribe! Your support truly is invaluable to us and we will always strive to produce the best content we can from around the world!
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Our Tskaltubo experience rating
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 5/5
It is fair to say that Tskaltubo was an adventure that we were not expecting at all when we first ventured into the beautiful country of Georgia. Yet we are so grateful that we had the opportunity to explore it and we would most certainly go back and uncover more of a town that has literally been lost to time. We would definitely recommend a visit, especially as there is a fair chance they will soon either be restored, or perhaps more sadly, decay into the winds of history.
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