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Closer Lives Travel and Lifestyle Blog: Your Guide to Adventure and Cultural Discovery

Exploring the Durres Amphitheatre: A Journey Through Albania’s Ancient Past

Writer's picture: Jenn & LeonJenn & Leon

Located in the center of Durrës, Albania's second-largest city, the Durrës Amphitheatre is a symbol of the area's rich history and Roman heritage. Being one of the largest Roman amphitheaters in the Balkans, dating back to the 2nd century, it is a must-see for both history buffs and inquisitive travelers.


Historic Durrës Amphitheatre with modern buildings in the background. Bright day with a red and black splash displaying its name.




Woman in sunglasses stands under pink flowers near an old stone arch. A seated person and a strolling child in the background. Sunny day.

In this post, we’ll cover all you need to know about the Durrës Amphitheatre, from its fascinating history and interesting facts to practical travel information from our personal experience visiting this incredible site.







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Our Durres Amphitheatre Highlights


Despite its size, Durrës Amphitheatre is not necessarily the easiest place to find, surprisingly given its location in the center of a city sprawl which was literally built around and on-top of this pretty unbelievable piece of Roman history. It is not very well signposted, although once you see the ancient walls and beautiful gardens, that surround it, your pretty much there.


Ruins with a brick archway, blooming pink and white flowers, trees, and a cobblestone path. People relax on a bench in the sun.

The Durrës Amphitheatre was discovered in the 1960's and excavation tricky owing to the properties that were literally built over it, such was the depth at which it had been buried. It is said that the last gladiator fights occurred here in the 5th century, when the city was known as Dyrrachium, with the site being taken over by Christians for religious events as the Roman empire entered its dying days.

Sometime around the 7th century the city was renamed Durrës and as it began to expand into Albania's 2nd largest city, the Amphitheatre was abandoned, buried under layers of earth and eventually built upon. But more on that later!


Woman in black walking on a cobblestone path beside an old brick wall. Sunny day, blue sky, trees, and houses in the background.

The history and story of this great theatre was always going to attract us, and we were very excited to see it. A pathway has been constructed that leads to a really good viewpoint above the amphitheatre, where one can really get a good feel for its size. And it is big indeed.





Restoration efforts have clearly been pretty slow here, and the lack of progress is probably the main reason Durrës Amphitheatre has yet to be granted World Heritage status. The main arena floor is still covered in grass and you can see some houses and other structures that are yet to be removed, most likely covering the missing part of the ring.


A view of an archaeological site with earthen structures and a covered excavation area in the foreground. In the background, there are multistory residential buildings and a clear blue sky.
The pink house on the left is most likely sitting on the remaining part of the outer seating

You are able to walk around the entirety of the amphitheatre, although it is now fenced off and you are not able to access the seating areas or center area. You are able to see a small mosaic and remains of a Christian chapel at the front, along with one of the tunnels, for a small charge of 300 lek. It was closed when we arrived, although the free view from the top of the amphitheatre felt more than worth it in itself.


There seems not to be much effort to capitalise on tourism here just yet, and the site still feels very raw and underdeveloped. There aren't any information boards or brochures, and if you chose not to visit the chapel, it will not take long to check it all out. That being said, it is one heck of a piece of history, and if you want to know more about that, read on!


Ancient amphitheater ruins with grass and stone paths, surrounded by modern buildings under a clear blue sky. Mixed historic and urban vibe.




 
 


The History Behind the Durres Amphitheatre


The city of Durrës, originally known as Dyrrachium in ancient times, has a history stretching back to the 7th century BC. Founded by Greek colonists from Corinth and Corcyra, Dyrrachium became a prominent settlement due to its strategic position along the Adriatic Sea, making it a key hub for trade and military operations in the region.


Ancient ruins in a grassy area with modern buildings in the background. Brightly colored houses, clear sky. Peaceful urban setting.

During the Roman era, Dyrrachium rose to prominence as an essential link in the Via Egnatia, a significant road connecting Rome to Byzantium (modern-day Istanbul). It was during this period, in the 2nd century AD under the reign of Emperor Trajan, that the magnificent Durrës Amphitheatre was constructed. This grand structure was designed to host gladiatorial games and other public spectacles, accommodating up to 20,000 spectators, which made it one of the largest amphitheaters in the Balkans.


The amphitheatre’s architecture reflects Roman engineering mastery, with a combination of underground tunnels, vaulted seating, and an intricate drainage system. These features allowed for the smooth operation of the games and provided a captivating experience for the audience. The structure served as a cultural and social focal point for the city during its heyday.



As the Roman Empire declined, so did the significance of the amphitheatre. By the 4th century AD, parts of the structure began to be repurposed. During the Byzantine period, a small chapel was constructed within the amphitheatre, adorned with stunning mosaics that reflected the shift toward Christianity. Over the centuries, the site was gradually abandoned, buried under layers of earth, and forgotten.


The amphitheatre was rediscovered in the 1960s during urban construction work in Durrës. As workers were excavating for new buildings, they uncovered parts of the amphitheatre’s structure. This accidental find sparked archaeological interest, leading to extensive excavations that revealed the amphitheatre’s impressive scale and historical importance. Many of the recovered artifacts can be found at the Durrës Archaeological Museum.





 
 


5 Interesting Facts About Durres Amphitheatre


● The Durrës Amphitheatre is one of 230 known Roman-era amphitheaters, and is the largest in the Balkans, with an estimated capacity of 20,000.


● Hidden within the amphitheatre is a small early Christian chapel featuring intricate mosaics, a rare blend of Roman and Byzantine artistry.


● The underground tunnels, now accessible to visitors, offer a glimpse into the behind-the-scenes workings of Roman spectacles.


● The amphitheatre was nearly lost to history, with houses and streets built over it until its rediscovery in the 1960s.





 
 


Durres Amphitheatre Entry Fee & Opening Times


⪢ Entrance Fee


Entry to the Durrës Amphitheatre is very affordable. Tickets typically cost around 200-300 Albanian Lek (approximately $2-3 USD) for adults. Discounts may be available for students, children, and groups. Guided tours are available for an additional cost, but they are well worth it for the insights they provide.


⪢ Opening Times


The amphitheatre is generally open daily from 9:00am to 6:00pm, but hours can vary seasonally. Aside from the occasional school trip, it does not get too busy here, so feel free to visit at any time.


Note: If you are visiting during the summer months, be sure to bring your own refreshments as there are not any stores of note nearby.





 
 


How to Get to Durres Amphitheatre


If you're already within Durrës, getting to Durrës Amphitheatre is fairly easy. The most convenient way would depend on your preference and budget:


⪢ By Walking


If you’re staying in central Durrës, the amphitheatre is conveniently located within walking distance. Enjoy a leisurely stroll through the city’s historic streets to reach the site.


⪢ By Bus


From Tirana, take a bus to Durrës from the central bus station. The journey takes around 40 minutes to an hour. Once you arrive at the Durrës bus terminal, the amphitheatre is a 15-minute walk through the city center.


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⪢ By Taxi


Taxis are readily available in Durrës and Tirana. A taxi ride from Tirana to Durrës takes approximately 40 minutes. Within Durrës, a short taxi ride will get you to the amphitheatre if you prefer not to walk.


⪢ By Car


If you’re driving, take the SH2 highway from Tirana to Durrës. Parking near the amphitheatre can be limited, so plan accordingly.


Note: Parking near the amphitheatre can be limited. Consider exploring on foot to fully appreciate the historic charm of the surrounding streets.





⪢ Easily Find Hotels in Durres and Beyond


Use our interactive map to easily locate the top hotels nearby, sourced from a variety of reputable platforms such as Booking, Vrbo, Expedia, Get Your Guide, and Hotels.com.


Our map offers a user-friendly interface that allows you to zoom in and out, providing a comprehensive view of the area and enabling you to identify the most convenient hotel options based on your current location or desired destination.







 
 


Durres Amphitheatre FAQ's


Is there an entry fee?

Yes, a small fee of €3 is required to enter. Prices may vary for adults, children, and guided tours.

What are the opening hours?

Are there guided tours available?

Is the site wheelchair accessible?





Our Durres Amphitheatre Experience Rating


Woman in black outfit and cap sits on a stone wall by a historical brick structure, surrounded by greenery and colorful buildings in sunlight.

It might not seem much at first, but Durrës Amphitheatre being the largest of its kind in the Balkans instantly makes it special. A 20,000 capacity? That is more than some Premier League grounds! With only half of the site currently excavated, there is no doubt much more to come from this World Heritage Site candidate.


Visiting the Durrës Amphitheatre is a fascinating journey into Albania’s ancient past, and is well worth checking out. We were struck by the contrast against the modern cityscape of Durrës, and even if you do not grab a ticket, you can still catch a great view and escape the city at the same time. Besides, if you have made it this far into this post, you are probably convinced already!


Looking for more things to do in Durrës? Check out our comprehensive guide to the city’s top attractions here. Have you visited the Durrës Amphitheatre? Share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below!





Our First Impressions of Durres on YouTube


If you're considering a city to explore in the Balkans, Durres should certainly make your list. This city offers numerous activities, beaches to enjoy, and a rich Roman history for enthusiasts. Additionally, its location is ideal for accessing many other fantastic spots in Albania and neighboring countries. We definitely favor this city as a short-term base over Tirana - watch the video to find out why!



If you enjoy our video and want to follow more of our adventures please do like and subscribe! Your support truly is invaluable to us and we will always strive to produce the best content we can from around the world!

e you in Tirana!

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