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Exploring Intramuros: Dark Tourism or an Essential Manila Experience?
Updated: Nov 18
Explore the haunting history and resilience of Intramuros in Manila. With almost 500 years of history, this walled city is a testament to the survival and independence of the Philippines. From Spanish colonial rule to Japanese occupation, along with near-total destruction in WW2, this city has not just survived; In the face of shocking adversity and the worst of humanity, it has thrived.
We took the sombre journey to Intramuros having already known about its awful history, littered with death and destruction. While almost all of its colonial-era structures have been lost to war, few do survive, offering a fascinating insight into what once was. Intramuros has rebuilt since the war, and has maintained many of the original street names, along with plaques of what once stood in place.
It is now a thriving hub of activity, from trade to tourism, and is a symbol of Philippine spirit and hope. If you really want to learn about the Philippines, this is the place to be, even if some do consider it 'dark tourism'. But more on that as you read on, along with more on the history of Intramuros and its troubled past, the must-see places, important visitor information, and as ever, our experience rating.
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● Get access to Intramuros’ top activities with Klook's Intramuros Pass
● The pass includes general entry to your all time favourites - Fort Santiago, Baluarte de San Diego, Casa Manila Museum, Museo de Intramuros, and many more!
● The pass is valid for 30 days and gives you flexibility to pick and choose depending on when and where you would like to go!
What is Intramuros?
Intramuros; the name itself evokes a sense of intrigue right? Literally translating to "within walls" in Spanish, Intramuros is much more than just a district in Manila, Philippines. It's a meticulously planned and fortified historic city, standing as a testament to a bygone era. Founded in 1571 by Spanish conquistador Miguel López de Legazpi, Intramuros thrived as the political and religious centre of the Spanish colonial Philippines for centuries.
⪢ A Citadel of Spanish Colonial Power
Imagine a walled city teeming with activity. Spanish galleons docked at the nearby harbor, while grand residences and imposing churches dominated the landscape. Intramuros served as the seat of the Captaincy General of the Philippines, housing the governor-general and the Real Audiencia (the high court). Fort Santiago, a formidable defensive structure, stands as a reminder of Spanish military might. Religious institutions like San Agustin Church, the oldest stone church in the Philippines, and Manila Cathedral, a masterpiece of Baroque architecture, showcase the profound influence of the Catholic Church during this period.
⪢ Beyond the Grand Structures: A Window into the Past
Intramuros offers a captivating glimpse into the social fabric of Spanish Manila. Museums like Casa Manila, a restored colonial mansion, provide a fascinating look into the lifestyles and furnishings of the Spanish elite. Horse-drawn carriages, known as kalesas, add a touch of nostalgia as you traverse the cobblestone streets. The Rizal Shrine (in Fort Santiago), dedicated to Philippine national hero Jose Rizal, offers insights into the struggle for independence during the Spanish colonial period.
⪢ A City Forged Anew
Intramuros bears the marks of a tumultuous past, most notably the devastation of World War II. Yet, it's a city that persistently strives forward. Today, ongoing restoration efforts meticulously preserve the historical character of the district. Modern cafes and art galleries seamlessly blend with the historical landscape, creating a vibrant cultural hub.
⪢ A Destination Not to be Missed
Whether you're a history enthusiast or simply seeking a unique cultural experience, Intramuros is a must-visit destination in the Philippines. Every corner whispers stories of a bygone era, waiting to be discovered. Intramuros offers a chance to step back in time and explore a captivating chapter in Philippine history.
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Why is it called 'Dark Tourism'
Dark tourism, also sometimes referred to as thanatourism, black tourism, or grief tourism, is a travel trend that involves visiting places associated with death, tragedy, and suffering. It's not about enjoying the macabre, but rather about understanding and learning from dark chapters in human history.
Dark tourism sites can be battlefields, concentration camps, genocide memorials, graveyards, prisons, or even sites of natural disasters. People are drawn to dark tourism for various reasons. Some seek to learn about history first-hand, confront the darker aspects of humanity, or pay respects to those who have suffered.
While visiting places of death and disaster has been around for centuries (think of attending gladiator games in the Roman Colosseum), dark tourism as a defined concept is a relatively recent phenomenon, gaining traction in the late 20th century. Places like Auschwitz in Poland, Chernobyl in Ukraine, Hiroshima in Japan and the Catacombs of Paris (France) are all considered dark tourism sites. As is Intramuros too.
Dark tourism can be a sensitive topic. Critics argue that it can be disrespectful to victims and insensitive to survivors. It's important to be respectful when visiting such sites and to learn about the history involved. We believe that these sites are an important way to educate our current generations about the mistakes of the past, but some may argue that they become more about social media sharing than about honouring the dead or education for the most part. What do you think?
Is dark tourism disrespectful / insensitive?
Yes
No
The history of Intramuros
Intramuros, meaning "within the walls" in Spanish, is a historic district situated at the heart of Manila, Philippines. Intramuros was founded by Spanish conquistador Miguel López de Legazpi in 1571. It was built as a defensive fortress surrounded by massive stone walls and moats to protect the Spanish settlers from attacks by local indigenous groups and other foreign powers. The walls of Intramuros stood as a physical barrier between the Spanish elite and the outside world.
Intramuros emerged as the political, religious, and economic nucleus of Manila during the Spanish colonial era. The district's architecture showcases a blend of Spanish colonial and Asian influences, featuring elegant facades, intricate carvings, and cobblestone streets. The district was laid out in a grid pattern, typical of Spanish colonial town planning, with the central plaza, Plaza Mayor (now known as Plaza de Roma), serving as the focal point. Key structures like the Manila Cathedral and San Agustin Church underline its role as a religious and cultural hub.
Intramuros survived the seven year war between Spain and Britain in 1762 but suffered devastating destruction during World War II, facing extensive bombing by American forces after Japan had invaded and occupied the city. Much of the original architecture and structures were destroyed or damaged during this period, not just from the bombing, but also via the 'scorched earth' tactics of the retreating Japanese army. Intramuros was almost completely destroyed, and Manila was the 2nd most destroyed city of WW2, after Warsaw in Poland.
Since the end of the war, and after the declaration of Philippine independence from the U.S in 1946, efforts have been made to preserve and restore what remains of Intramuros' historical heritage. Despite much of the original city being lost, Intramuros is to this day a cherished location, attracting tourists eager to delve into the Philippines' colonial history. It offers a unique glimpse into the nation's past through museums, cultural sites, and landmarks. As a living tribute to the Philippines' history, Intramuros symbolizes the country's resilience and offers a tangible connection to its struggle for freedom from foreign powers.
Must-see places in Intramuros
There are many important places of interest in Intramuros, but here are a few that we highly recommend you check out:
⪢ San Agustin Church
The San Agustin Church is a Baroque church located in Intramuros, Manila, Philippines. It is the oldest church in the Philippines and one of the four Baroque Churches of the Philippines inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the only church that survived the near complete destruction of Intramuros in WW2.
⪢ Casa Manila
Casa Manila is a museum in Intramuros, Manila, Philippines. It is a replica of a Spanish colonial house from the 19th century. The house was built in 1980 by the Cultural Center of the Philippines (CCP) and is now a museum that showcases the lifestyle of a wealthy Filipino family during the Spanish colonial period.
⪢ Manila Cathedral
The Manila Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral-Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, is a historic and significant minor basilica located within the ancient walled city of Intramuros in Manila, Philippines. It has been the site of significant religious events, including papal visits, canonizations, and large-scale liturgical celebrations.
⪢ Fort Santiago
Fort Santiago is a citadel located in Intramuros, Manila, Philippines. It was built by the Spanish in 1571 and served as the headquarters of the Spanish colonial government in the Philippines. The fort was also used as a prison, and it is where José Rizal, the national hero of the Philippines, was imprisoned before his execution in 1896.
⪢ Barbara's Heritage Restaurant
Barbara's Heritage Restaurant is a Spanish-Filipino restaurant located in Intramuros, Manila. It is housed in a restored Spanish-era mansion, Casa Manila, and is known for its elegant interiors, traditional Filipino cuisine, and cultural performances.
Intramuros entrance fee
There is no entrance fee to access Intramuros itself. However, some of the attractions within Intramuros do charge entrance fees. For example, Casa Manila and Museo de Intramuros both have entrance fees. You can find a list of the entrance fees for all of the attractions in Intramuros on the official website.
Intramuros opening hours
Intramuros itself, as the walled city of Manila, doesn't have specific opening hours per-se, although you will find that the pedestrian and vehicular gates are advertised to open at 5am and close at 10.30pm. The gate we entered through seemed heavily guarded, so we would assume this to be enforced, although details online are sketchy at best.
Most attractions are open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 9am to 6pm. It's important to note that some museums and churches may have different schedules, and some are closed on Mondays. To be on the safe side, it's always a good idea to check the specific opening hours of the places you want to visit before you go.
How to get to Intramuros in Manila
Intramuros is located in the heart of Manila, and is a central and accessible location for both locals and tourists. There are a number of different transport options you can choose from when planning your trip.
⪢ By LRT (Light Rail Transit)
This is the most budget-friendly option. Take the LRT Line 1 (Green Line) and alight at Central Terminal Station. From there, it's a short walk or tricycle ride to Intramuros.
● Fare: Approximately PHP 15-30 (subject to change)
● Travel Time: Around 30 minutes depending on your starting point.
⪢ By jeepney
● Jeepneys are a colorful and iconic mode of transportation in Manila. Several jeepney routes pass by Intramuros. Look for jeepneys with signs indicating "Intramuros," "Roxas Blvd (Ermita)," or "Central Terminal."
● Fare: Minimum fare of PHP 9 (subject to change) depending on the distance travelled.
● Travel Time: Varies depending on traffic conditions.
⪢ By taxi
Taxis offer a convenient and comfortable option, especially with luggage. Metered taxis are recommended. Ensure the meter is running before your trip begins.
● Fare: Varies depending on the distance and traffic conditions. Expect the base fare to be around PHP 40 and an additional charge per kilometre.
● Travel Time: The fastest option, particularly if you're coming from a far distance. Traffic congestion can significantly impact travel time though (and it can be very bad, especially in the evening).
⪢ By Kalesa (Horse-Drawn Carriage)
● Experience a touch of nostalgia with a kalesa ride. These horse-drawn carriages are readily available around Intramuros and offer a unique way to explore the historic district.
● Fare: Negotiate the fare beforehand. Expect it to be higher than other transportation options.
⪢ By tour
Get access to Intramuros’ top activities with Klook's Intramuros Pass. The pass includes general entry to your all time favourites - Fort Santiago, Baluarte de San Diego, Casa Manila Museum, Museo de Intramuros, and many more. The pass is valid for 30 days and gives you flexibility to pick and choose depending on when and where you would like to go.
Address: Manila, 1002 Metro Manila, Philippines
Website: intramuros.gov.ph
Instagram: @intramurosph
Facebook: @OfficialIntramurosAdministration
WATCH our Intramuros experience on YouTube
Come rain or shine we made the best of the day! In this video we explore the tourist hot spots of Plaza San Luis Complex where you can find the Barbara's Heritage Restaurant, The Royal Cafe and the Casa Manila Living Museum. We also head to San Agustin Church, Manila Cathedral and Fort Santiago, all while enjoying the sights and sounds of the lively and friendly Manila that we have come to know and love in our month long stay here.
If you enjoy our video and want to follow more of our adventures please do like and subscribe! Your support truly is invaluable to us and we will always strive to produce the best content we can from around the world!
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Our Intramuros experience rating
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 5/5
The Intramuros of today is a far cry from where it was a decade ago, let alone after the war. Today it is a bustling hub of tourists, traders and tour guides. It is a little overwhelming as you first enter, as you will be bombarded by a plethora of people offering you transport around the place. Should you want to go your own way, you will find sidewalks hard to come by, and a lot of traffic on the roads. That being said it is nice to go at your own pace, and the main points of interest in the city are perfectly walkable.
We thoroughly enjoyed checking our the San Agustin Church, Manila Cathedral and in particular, Casa Manila. At that point we were really enjoying the old buildings and the general vibe! The tough part was heading to Fort Santiago last, in particular heading down into the prison bunker, which told the story of Intramuros' dark past that literally broke us inside. It was a sobering end to the visit and one which gave our hearts to the lives lost, and the Philippine people who have endured so much terror and subjugation over the years. This is a proud nation and its fight for independence never ceased and was eventually successful, and it really endeared us even more to this incredible country. We have no doubt a visit to Intramuros will do the same for you too.
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