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Forget Cancun; Why this little-known highland town is a MUST SEE in Mexico
Updated: Jun 16
Without any doubt, San Cristobal is the place in Mexico we fell in love with the most! Its quaint, hilly cobbled streets, lined with those gorgeous traditional Mexican stores and homes, appealed to us from day one. And from then on in it only got better. Amazing restaurants, an awesome Airbnb and great views were one thing. But beyond all of that it was the people, the tradition, and the lively art scene of San Cris that captivated us so much, we stayed for 3 months!
This charming town was full of surprises. San Cristobal is well known for its traditional style and architecture, but what makes it even more special is how relaxed and fun it is. There is color everywhere, beautiful clay tile rooftops, stunning street art, tons of independent craft shops and street sellers and performers out practically everyday. It is a party town in the evening and a quiet and tranquil town during the day. We hope this post will show you all of the reasons why San Cristobal should be your Mexico vacation spot this summer!
Read on for our highlights, including our favourite street art and food spots. We also give you some of the town's colonial history, a glimpse at our epic Airbnb, and our San Cristobal experience rating.
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Our San Cristobal highlights
We did not know much about San Cristobal before coming here, but if our time prior in Mexico was anything to go by, we knew it would be good. And it did not disappoint! We had just spent 3 months in the likes of Cancun, Playa del Carmen, Puerto Morelos, Tulum and Merida, so we were certainly getting around a bit. Oh and Isla Mujeres and Cozumel too! By this point we already had a great taste of Mexican culture, but little did we know that we were to discover a whole different experience here in San Cristobal.
Our full-time travel adventure had only really just started at this point, and we were in the throws of moving around quickly. The plan was to rent Airbnb's for a month at a time if possible, as it works out cheaper that way. As we had spent a lot of time working our way up along the coast of Quintana Roo, we thought it would be nice to spend a month more inland, and so our gaze was cast upon this quaint town with a big history.
One of the best things about Mexico is their stellar system of transport which involves very long, but super efficient journeys. You can book a coach bus to just about anywhere, and the infrastructure of bus stations is very good. We took an OCC bus from Merida the entire way, a mammoth 18 hours, but a super comfortable one at that.
The route gets real interesting when you leave Villahermosa, as the coastal drive switches to mountainous terrain, tight winding roads and lots of single lane traffic. Much of it is highway so we did not get to see much, but once we started hitting the mountains, the views were absolutely incredible. We certainly felt the altitude though, as we climbed towards the incredible 7,200 foot height above sea level where San Cristobal proudly resides.
This charming town may not be amongst the highest level of places to live in the world, but it is certainly right up there (pun intended). When we got here we immediately knew it would be quite the work out to get around, with most of the residential areas on the hills that lead down to the bulk of the stores and shops that service the town.
There is plenty of exercise to be had in San Cristobal, that is for sure. We love walking around so even though it was challenging at times, we embraced it. Honestly, there is no reason not to, because it is the beautiful cobbled streets and old colonial-era architecture that makes this town so attractive. Pretty much every street features some type of art, be it giant mural's or artistic graffiti. The photo ops are insane here! Not to mention a really lovely vibe that emanates from the place. It really felt good to be here, dare we say it, it felt like home within days of arriving.
The bright colors, the stone steps, the beautiful iron railings and cute benches; wherever you go you will feel the full force of Mexican culture here in San Cristobal. That is before you even start delving into the stunning churches, incredible cafes and epic restaurants. There are plenty of them here! Each spot has its own unique story to tell too.
Take this church for example, The Templo de la Transfiguración del Señor, also known as the Templo del Cerrillo. It is a simple and unassuming church, but it is home to a revered image of Christ known as the Señor de la Transfiguración. The church was built in the 17th century by the Dominicans, who were the dominant religious order in San Cristóbal at the time. The Señor de la Transfiguración is believed to have been carved in the 16th century and is said to have miraculous powers, making this a very popular pilgrimage destination. It is stories and places like these that bring such a vibrant energy to this town!
Pretty much everyday it felt like something was happening. San Cristobal has many festivals, events and parades and there are fireworks going off almost everyday. There are tons of markets to visit, each of which are packed on the daily and are full of everything you could possibly need. We loved wandering through them and shopping for fresh produce, which is way cheaper here than back home in Canada or the UK. Cost of living is definitely a plus point for San Cristobal too. Despite an increasing amount of attention and tourists, prices are still low.
Just look around you. Half of these people came here for a week or two, and are still here months later. When you come to San Cristobal, even if just for a day, you'll never want to leave!
- A common joke according to locals, indeed we were told this by someone who was still in the city one year after arriving!
There is plenty to do in San Cristobal aside from walking of course, with lots of tours teeing off into neighboring towns, and plenty of churches, cathedrals, caves and local communities too. We spent most of our time in the town though, discovering new cafes, restaurants and neat trinket stores whenever we went out. The main thoroughfare is Real de Guadalupe and it is where most of the buzz and life is, mainly in the afternoons. You will find everything here from street sellers to street performers, musicians, booksellers, artists and more. There is always something new to see, and a new vibe to enjoy!
Street Art in San Cristobal de las Casas
We are not sure if you know this, but Jenn and I are a big fan of street art around the world. We are always drawn to it and love to take a photograph or two! Well let us tell you that if you feel the same about street art, then this town will simply blow you away. The art here literally is on another level! Wherever we went, there was something. Most side streets, homes, and even in some cases the sidewalks themselves are covered in art!
Street art flourishes in Mexican towns due to a convergence of cultural, historical, and social factors. Rooted in the muralism movement of the early 20th century led by iconic artists like Diego Rivera, street art has become a powerful means of expressing cultural identity and addressing social and political issues. Mexican street artists often use their work to celebrate indigenous cultures, promote community empowerment, and contribute to economic revitalization.
The art form has also become a significant tourist attraction, with local governments commissioning murals to showcase the unique aspects of their towns. Additionally, the global street art movement has influenced Mexican artists, contributing to the widespread popularity of this form of expression.
Overall, the prevalence of street art in Mexican towns is a reflection of a rich cultural heritage, a tradition of muralism, and a contemporary platform for social commentary and community engagement. We think it works, especially in San Cristobal de las Casas!
Read on for a brief history of this incredible town, interesting facts, food and accommodation in San Cristobal, how to find the town, and our experience rating.
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The history behind San Cristobal
San Cristóbal de las Casas has a rich history that dates back to pre-Columbian times. Here is a brief overview of its history:
⪢ Pre-Columbian Era
The area around San Cristóbal de las Casas was originally inhabited by indigenous peoples, primarily the Tzotzil and Tzeltal Maya. These communities engaged in agriculture, trade, and various cultural practices.
⪢ Spanish Conquest
The Spanish arrived in the region in the early 16th century. In 1528, Diego de Mazariegos founded the town of Villa Real de Chiapa, which later became San Cristóbal de las Casas in honor of Bartolomé de las Casas, a Spanish Dominican friar and advocate for the rights of indigenous peoples.
⪢ Colonial Period
San Cristóbal de las Casas became an important colonial city in the Chiapas region. The Spanish built churches, convents, and other colonial structures, leaving a significant architectural footprint. The city thrived on agriculture, mining, and trade.
⪢ Ecclesiastical Influence
The city became a center of religious influence with the establishment of the Bishopric of Chiapas in 1538. The Cathedral of San Cristóbal de las Casas, constructed in the 16th century, stands as a testament to this ecclesiastical history.
⪢ Indigenous Resistance
Throughout the colonial period, the indigenous populations in the surrounding areas resisted Spanish rule. The most notable uprising was the Tzeltal Rebellion of 1712-1713, led by Juan Dieguez Olguín.
⪢ Independence and 19th Century
San Cristóbal de las Casas, like many other Mexican cities, experienced the turbulence of the Mexican War of Independence (1810-1821). After gaining independence, the city continued to play a role in regional politics and development.
⪢ 20th Century
The city maintained its colonial charm and cultural significance throughout the 20th century. In 1994, the Zapatista uprising, led by the Zapatista Army of National Liberation (EZLN), brought national and international attention to Chiapas, with San Cristóbal de las Casas at the center of events.
⪢ Modern Era
Today, San Cristóbal de las Casas is known for its well-preserved colonial architecture, vibrant indigenous cultures, and as a popular destination for tourism. The city attracts visitors with its lively markets, artisan crafts, and a unique blend of indigenous and Spanish influences.
The history of San Cristóbal de las Casas reflects the complex interplay of indigenous cultures, Spanish colonization, and the ongoing struggles for social justice and autonomy in the region.
10 interesting facts about San Cristobal
San Cristóbal de las Casas is a fascinating city with a rich history and unique characteristics. Here are five super interesting facts about this charming place:
1. Multicultural Atmosphere
San Cristóbal de las Casas is renowned for its multicultural ambiance. The city is home to various indigenous communities, including the Tzotzil and Tzeltal Maya, who contribute to the vibrant cultural tapestry. This diversity is evident in the local markets, traditional dress, and languages spoken on the streets.
2. Altitude & Climate
The city is situated at a relatively high altitude, approximately 2,200 meters (7,200 feet) above sea level. This altitude contributes to a mild, temperate climate, making San Cristóbal de las Casas a refreshing escape from the heat of lower-lying areas in Chiapas.
3. Colonial Architecture
San Cristóbal boasts well-preserved colonial architecture. The historic city center is characterized by cobblestone streets, colorful buildings, and numerous churches and cathedrals. The Cathedral of San Cristóbal, built in the Spanish Colonial style, is a prominent landmark in the city.
4. Zapatista Connection
In 1994, San Cristóbal de las Casas gained international attention due to the Zapatista uprising led by the Zapatista Army of National Liberation (EZLN). The rebels, advocating for indigenous rights and autonomy, occupied the city briefly, drawing attention to issues of social justice and indigenous rights in Mexico.
5. Artisan Traditions
The city is a hub for traditional artisan crafts. Local artisans produce intricate textiles, pottery, and woodcarvings, reflecting the cultural heritage of the indigenous communities. Visitors can explore the numerous markets and workshops to witness the creation of these unique and beautiful handcrafted goods.
6. Cultural Festivals
The city hosts various cultural festivals throughout the year, celebrating its rich heritage. One notable event is the Fiesta Grande de Enero (Grand January Festival), a month-long celebration featuring traditional music, dance, and religious processions.
7. Iglesia de La Merced Church (Templo de Santo Domingo)
La Merced Church is a historical and architectural gem in San Cristóbal. Constructed in the 16th century, the church features a stunning baroque façade and an ornate interior. The church is known for its intricate details and is a must-visit for those interested in colonial architecture.
8. Coffee Culture
Chiapas is a major coffee-producing region, and San Cristóbal de las Casas is no exception. The city is surrounded by coffee plantations, and visitors can explore the local coffee culture by taking tours to nearby coffee farms, learning about the cultivation and processing of this important crop.
9. Amber Capital of Mexico
The region around San Cristóbal de las Casas is famous for its amber. The city is considered the "Amber Capital of Mexico," and visitors can explore numerous shops and markets to find unique amber jewelry, sculptures, and artifacts. The Amber Museum in the city provides insight into the history and significance of this precious gemstone.
10. El Arcotete Natural Monument
For nature enthusiasts, the El Arcotete Natural Monument is a must-visit. Located just outside the city, this natural wonder features caves, rock formations, and a natural arch. It's a popular spot for hiking and exploring the diverse flora and fauna of the Chiapas highlands.
The food in San Cristobal
In the culinary haven of San Cristóbal de las Casas, the vibrant flavors of Chiapas come to life. The city's food scene reflects the rich tapestry of indigenous traditions and Spanish influences, creating a unique fusion that captivates the taste buds. A must-try local specialty is the renowned tamales, featuring a delightful blend of masa dough filled with savory or sweet ingredients, wrapped in banana leaves or corn husks and steamed to perfection.
For meat lovers, the slow-roasted cochito (pork) is a savory delight, seasoned with local spices and often accompanied by traditional salsas. Mole, a complex and flavorful sauce made with chili peppers, chocolate, and various spices, is another culinary masterpiece that graces many dishes in San Cristóbal.
We loved the robust aromas of street food stalls offering sopes, gorditas, and quesadillas, each showcasing the diverse local produce and handmade tortillas. Not to mention the smells of rich Chiapas coffee, knowing that the region is celebrated for its high-quality coffee beans.
Exploring the markets and local eateries of San Cristóbal de las Casas isn't just a culinary adventure; it's an immersion into the heart and soul of Chiapas, where every bite tells a story of tradition, innovation, and the vibrant spirit of this charming city. We thoroughly enjoyed the food here and the main high street is a great adventure with so much on offer. Honestly in three months, we cannot even say we tried everything, and we eat out almost every day!
Our San Cristobal AirBnb
Nestled in a tranquil neighborhood, just a delightful 15-minute stroll from San Cristóbal's central park and six blocks from the bustling Real de Guadalupe walking street, are three distinct and comfortable apartments: "Casa Lily Rana," "Casa Lily Jaguar," and "Casa Lily Ixim."
These Airbnb's offer a perfect blend of convenience and tranquility. Crafted by the renowned Frédéric Burkhard, recipient of the 2012 European Award for Artistic and Cultural Activities, they boast distinctive designs characterized by organic forms, ample natural light, and efficient use of space.
Each apartment comes with a fully equipped kitchen, private baths, and enchanting balconies or patios with excellent views. The apartments also have access to laundry facilities, gardens, a barbecue area, and the pleasures of herb-picking from a well manicured garden.
The best part of this Airbnb has to be the substitute of a TV for a fireplace. It is not often one gets to have a fully functioning fireplace in the home, especially as a traveler. This was a real treat, and one made even sweeter by the fact that the host provides cut wood free of charge. It was so nice and cozy to snuggle up while the fire was crackling, and it was a big selling point for us!
We have no hesitation recommending Casa Lily, and if you would like to know more, you can check out the listing on Airbnb here.
Things to know before visiting San Cristobal
Before visiting San Cristóbal de las Casas, it's helpful to be aware of certain aspects to ensure a smooth and enjoyable experience. Here are some important things to know:
⪢ Altitude & Weather
San Cristóbal de las Casas is situated at a high altitude, so visitors may experience symptoms of altitude sickness. It's advisable to stay hydrated, take it easy on physical activities initially, and allow your body time to acclimate. The weather is generally mild, but it can be cool, especially in the evenings, so pack accordingly.
⪢ Respect for Indigenous Cultures
The city is home to various indigenous communities, and it's important to show respect for their cultures and traditions. Ask for permission before taking photographs, be mindful of cultural sensitivities, and purchase crafts directly from artisans or reputable markets to support the local economy.
⪢ Safety Precautions
While San Cristóbal is considered relatively safe for tourists, it's always wise to take standard safety precautions. Keep an eye on your belongings, be cautious in crowded areas, and use official transportation services. It's also advisable to check current travel advisories before your trip.
⪢ Currency & Cash
The official currency is the Mexican Peso (MXN). While credit cards are widely accepted in hotels and restaurants, it's a good idea to carry some cash for smaller establishments and local markets. ATMs are available, but it's recommended to use those located in secure and well-lit areas.
⪢ Local Cuisine
Chiapas is known for its diverse and delicious cuisine. Don't miss the opportunity to try local dishes such as tamales, cochito (slow-roasted pork), and various types of moles. Street food can be delightful, but choose vendors with clean and hygienic practices to avoid any health issues.
⪢ Zapatista Legacy
Familiarize yourself with the history of the Zapatista uprising in 1994, as it plays a significant role in the city's recent history. While the situation has evolved, it's still valuable to understand the cultural and political context of the region.
⪢ Language
While Spanish is the official language, many locals, especially in indigenous communities, speak their native languages like Tzotzil and Tzeltal. Basic Spanish phrases can be helpful, but in more tourist-oriented areas, English may be spoken.
⪢ Transportation
San Cristóbal is a walkable city, but if you plan to explore nearby attractions or villages, consider hiring a local guide or using organized tours. Public transportation is available, but it's essential to confirm schedules and routes.
By being aware of these aspects, you can enhance your experience in San Cristóbal de las Casas and better appreciate the cultural, historical, and natural wonders the city has to offer.
How to get to San Cristobal in Mexico
San Cristóbal de las Casas is located in the southern part of Mexico, within the state of Chiapas. Tuxtla Gutiérrez, the capital of Chiapas, is the nearest major city. In a broader context, San Cristóbal de las Casas is about 900 kilometers southeast of Mexico City and approximately 1,350 kilometers southwest of Cancún.
If you're flying to Mexico and planning to visit San Cristóbal de las Casas, the most common approach is to fly into major airports and then use ground transportation to reach the city. Here are the general steps:
⪢ Fly to Major Airports
● The nearest major airport to San Cristóbal de las Casas is the Ángel Albino Corzo International Airport (IATA: TGZ), which serves the city of Tuxtla Gutiérrez, Chiapas. However, flights to this airport might be limited.
● Alternatively, you can fly into the Manuel Crescencio Rejón International Airport (IATA: MID) in Mérida, Cancún International Airport (IATA: CUN) in Cancún, or Mexico City International Airport (IATA: MEX), which are well-connected airports in Mexico.
⪢ Ground Transportation from Tuxtla Gutiérrez
If you land at Ángel Albino Corzo International Airport, you can take a taxi or shuttle to Tuxtla Gutiérrez (the capital of Chiapas) and then use a bus or private transportation to reach San Cristóbal de las Casas, which is about 1.5 to 2 hours away.
⪢ Bus or Private Transportation to San Cristóbal de las Casas
● Bus: From Tuxtla Gutiérrez, you can take a bus to San Cristóbal de las Casas. ADO and OCC are two major bus companies that operate on this route. The bus journey takes approximately 2 to 3 hours.
● Private Transportation: Taxis and private shuttle services are available for a more comfortable and direct journey. You can arrange these services at the airport or through your accommodation.
⪢ Alternative Airports
If flights to Tuxtla Gutiérrez are limited or expensive, consider flying to other major airports like Mérida, Cancún, or Mexico City. From these airports, you can take a domestic flight to Tuxtla Gutiérrez or choose alternative ground transportation options.
⪢ Domestic Flights
Depending on your point of entry, you may find domestic flights from major airports to Ángel Albino Corzo International Airport. Check with Mexican airlines for available routes.
⪢ Renting a Car
If you prefer flexibility, you can rent a car at the airport and drive to San Cristóbal de las Casas. The journey by car takes around 1.5 to 2 hours, and it allows you to explore the surrounding areas at your own pace.
Always check current travel conditions, flight availability, and transportation options based on your specific itinerary. Additionally, consider booking transportation in advance, especially during peak travel times.
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Check out our San Cristobal highlights on YouTube
Join us in this two video series and see why people love it here in the most beautiful and colourful city in Mexico... and why we decided to stay in this beautiful town for 3 months! They say people never want to leave and we didn't either!
First we take you on a mini ADO bus ride with views as we travelled from Merida to San Cristobal. We give you a tour of both the grounds and inside of our amazing Airbnb. We take a stroll through the streets in San Cristobal, getting acquainted with the local area and stopping at a fruit and vegetable market to buy some locally grown produce.
We then take a short walking tour through Main square Cathedral and Real de Guadalupe at a quieter time of day with a quick stop at La Vino De Bacco, one of our favourite spots to people watch, and get a glass of wine for $25 pesos along with complementary tapas and great street entertainment. We then burn off that wine with another mini walking tour.
We finish off the evening at Patio Azul a wonderful restaurant with a diverse menu and wonderful drinks. They also have evening entertainment ranging from DJ's. live bands, solo performers etc. Once arriving back to our Airbnb we show you the amazing lightening storms that light up the night skies of San Cristobal de las Casas. This is truly part of what leads to this being such a magical place in Mexico... and no night is complete with out a good fire to wind down to!
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Our San Cristobal experience rating
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 5/5
Easily one of our favorite spots in all of Mexico, San Cristobal will forever remain a very special part of our full-time travel journey. Not just because it was at the beginning, in that first 6 month honeymoon phase, but because it is an awesome town, simple as that. Given that we have now stayed in well over a hundred different towns and cities worldwide, this is high praise indeed!
This town really has it all; a very unique blend of local, traditional, international and ex-colonial flair. It is incredible how everything works so seamlessly and peacefully, even with the influx of tourists, ex-pats and digital nomads. This town has something for everyone, be it cute cafes, up-scale restaurants, night life buzz, tourist tours or just really cool working spots. The food, the markets, the vibe... this is San Cristobal. The town no-one wants to leave!
As ever thank you for reading, and please feel free to share your experience, or ask any questions you may have, in the comments below. All feedback on the post is welcome too!
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