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Tirana's Bunk'Art 2, a secret state nuclear bunker turned public museum
Updated: Jun 17
In 2015 this communist era bunker was unveiled to the public after being shrouded in secrecy for nearly 40 years. Built as part of an astonishing network of 700,000 such tunnels and bunkers across Albania, now repurposed as a museum, here you will meet the horrors of a brutal paranoid dictatorship. Bunk'Art 2 is a symbol of a dark past, yet one that now signifies a new era for this proud Balkan state.
We were already aware of some of Albania's history from our research prior to traveling here. But honestly nothing can quite prepare you for witnessing this dark history up close and personal, deep beneath the bustling capital. The energy was heavy and the mood sombre as we were greeted with an audio recording reading out the names of political convicts on entry. Our curiosity was heightened, although the haunting feeling about the place never quite left us as we went from room to room.
Read on for more on our experience here, why the bunkers were constructed, how you can visit and other things to do in the area.
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What is Bunk'Art 2? Why should you visit?
Bunk'Art 2 is the second of two nuclear bunkers in Tirana, located just off of Skanderbeg Square. It is just over 1000m2 and was built for the Ministry of Internal Affairs during the communist rule of the country. In other words, it was used almost exclusively by the police and houses 24 rooms which include a prison cell and decontamination rooms.
Albania was subject to communist rule from 1946 to 1992, although this museum details the history of the police as far back as 1912. The paranoia of the ruling regime at the time is clear to understand with many exhibits and written information in all of the rooms. Despite being built as a nuclear bunker we certainly got the feeling that this was also used for apprehension and interrogation too.
The political persecution of Albanian citizens is truly harrowing and overwhelmingly hard to understand. It is estimated that over 100,000 people were apprehended by the communist regime, with some 6,000 being executed, 34,000 imprisoned and 50,000 sent to internment camps.
One can only imagine how it must have felt for those taken to bunkers just like these, walking the long cold hallways underground with an uncompromising feeling of fear and despair. Thankfully this is now in the past, the museum now thankfully just a stark reminder of how not to govern a country.
There are two bunker museums in Albania, Bunk'Art 1 & Bunk'Art 2. They are just 2 of an astonishing network of tunnels and bunkers built across the country by its paranoid dictator leader at the time, Enver Hoxha. More on Hoxha, and Bunk'Art 1 later in this post!
"While BUNK'ART 1 is dedicated to the history of the Albanian communist army and to the daily lives of Albanians during the regime, BUNK'ART 2 reconstructs the history of the Albanian Ministry of Internal Affairs from 1912 to 1991 and reveals the secrets of “Sigurimi”, the political police that was the harsh persecution weapon used by the regime of Enver Hoxha"
Keep reading to find out more about the bunkers of Albania, how to get tickets for Bunk'Art 2 and directions on how to get there.
Enver Hoxha and Albania's Bunkers
To understand the bunkers you first need to know about Enver Hoxha, the country's first communist chief of state. He ruled the country for 40 years from 1944 until his death in 1985. Shortly after the World War II Hoxha's reform program revolutionized Albania's economy and living standards and he is widely credited for taking Albania to a self-sufficient footing. This came after years of Ottoman rule and a brief Italian invasion prior to the WW 2.
His party was widely popular in Albania in its earlier years given the huge changes he implemented. Disease epidemics and illiteracy were stamped out and electricity brought to every district in the country. Albania also became almost completely dependent on its own food crops and industry, of which both were previously non-existent.
Despite these successes, other issues began to arise geopolitically which were perhaps the trigger for Hoxha's brutal crackdowns that he initiated amongst the Albanian people, and those that are detailed as such in the bunker museums.
Hoxha formed various alliances throughout the earlier days of his tenure, with the likes of Yugoslavia, the Soviet Union and China. All of whom he severed ties with over time, with a growing paranoia that the influence of the outside world would threaten his power and rule over Albania. He gradually spurned all of the worlds major powers, insisting that Albania would become a model socialist republic.
It was these factors which led to the persecution of his own people as he increasingly started to look inwards for threats to his governance. Political persecutions and executions were rife, as was the brutality of the police and government officials. The fear led to the creation of an enormous network of walls of barbed wire, tunnels and bunkers across the country, all designed to 'protect' the government from invaders and nuclear attacks. These attacks never actually came to pass, ultimately leading to this very network being used to interrogate and imprison Albanian people.
Communism in Albania collapsed in 1989 in the Albanian revolution, with Enver Hoxha's statue in Skanderbeg Square torn down. There was a subsequent fervent rejection of anything associated with him and his government. The Republic of Albania was proclaimed on April 29th, 1991.
A wonderful evening enjoying the beautiful piano & violin sounds of Galan Trio, performing amongst the incredible artefacts of Durrës Museum.
Getting tickets for Bunk'Art 2
You are currently unable to get tickets online, but you can simply purchase them on arrival. We were able to pay by visa debit but you can also pay in cash.
Bunk'Art 2 is open everyday, 9am - 6.30pm. On Friday's & Saturday's closing time is 8pm.
How to get to Bunk'Art 2
Tap the map below for easy navigation to the Bunk'Art 2. Keep in mind that it is rather difficult to find even with maps and navigation as the entrance and exits are tucked away due to the origins of the bunker itself. You will also find a host of other places of interest in the area; including Tirana Castle, the House of Leaves Museum and the National History Museum.
Bunk'Art 2 is open everyday, 9am - 6pm. On Friday's, Saturday's & Sunday's closing time is 7pm. Tap here for more details.
Bunk'Art 1 & the Dajti Express Cable Car
Bunk'Art 1 is a much larger bunker built on the outskirts of Tirana, again commissioned by Enver Hoxha. It was designed for the political elite only and was a very well kept secret throughout its construction. This bunker is located next to an active military base and despite never being used, it is presented as it was on completion - ready for a nuclear attack.
This bunker is more decorative than Bunk'Art 2 with lots of artwork and a large assembly hall. The government would have been able to run the country from here and it has an office exclusively for Hoxha himself. Unfortunately we did not visit here ourselves on this particular trip but do let us know if you do and if you would recommend it!
The entrance to Bunk'Art 1 is just next to the Dajti Express Cable Car and you are able to buy tickets combining the two. The cable car will take you to the top of Dajti Mountain where you can enjoy stunning views of Tirana, along with a hilltop restaurant.
⪢ How to get to Bunk'Art 1
You are able to take a bus just outside the Palace of Culture at Skanderbeg Square. The driver will inform you when you arrive at the bunker.
⪢ How much is Bunk'Art 1?
Admission fee is 5 euros per adult at time of writing (April 2024).
⪢ How much is the Dajti Cable Car?
At time of writing (April 2024) the cost for a return trip is 6 euros per adult.
⪢ What are the opening times?
● Dajti Cable Car: Wednesday to Monday, 9am - 6.30pm.
● Bunk'Art 1: Wednesday - Sunday, 9.30 - 4pm.
● Bunk'Art 2: Everyday, 9am - 6pm. On Friday's Saturday's & Sunday's, closing time is 7pm.
Read more: How to take the bus from Tirana, Albania across the border to Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia
We show you how to cross this land border, useful travel tips, how to find Tirana Bus Station (it is not that easy) and bus ticket info!
Our Bunk Art Museum experience rating
⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4/5
Bunk'Art 2 was actually one of the highlights of our research before coming to Tirana so we were quite keen to visit. As a museum it does not disappoint, it is well presented and informative with a particular highlight being English translation which is extremely helpful. The price is decent and there are good combo options for the cable car and Bunk'Art 1 too.
We are rating this museum four stars; the main reason for it not being a full house for us is the harrowing nature of what it represents. We can understand the animosity towards it from the locals, although the tourism benefits perhaps outweigh the heaviness that comes with the territory. We would recommend a visit, but would caution some discretion for those who have a more sensitive disposition or are travelling with young children. Let us know how you get on if you decide to go!
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