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We Survived a Motorcycle Accident in Bali: New law could BAN all foreigners from driving ANY vehicle
Updated: Jun 16
Bali is one of the top tourist and digital nomad destinations in the world, with a vast number of scooters and motorbikes on the roads. Unfortunately it has experienced a significant number of accidents involving them specifically, owing to insufficient infrastructure and poor regulation enforcement.
The accident rates in Bali can vary year to year but are currently amongst the highest in the world. Sadly we are now part of those statistics, and we want to raise awareness to help you avoid the same situation as us.
PLUS read about the MONUMENTAL potential law change that will have a dramatic impact on tourists and locals alike on this stunning Indonesian island.
There are an estimated 3.9 million scooters alone in Bali, Indonesia. This number has been steadily increasing in recent years, as scooters have become the preferred mode of transportation for many people on the island. Scooters are affordable, fuel-efficient, and easy to maneuver in the congested traffic of Bali. However, they can also be dangerous, as they are often involved in accidents.
In 2019, there sadly were over 1,000 people killed in motorcycle accidents alone in Bali. Officially there are over 10,000 accidents involving bikes every year on the island, although the total is believed to be far higher due to a lack of reporting of minor incidents.
Despite both of us having 20+ years driving experience, neither of us had ever driven a bike or scooter before. Jenn had the slight upper hand as she has been a passenger many times on them, so that gave us some confidence. For Leon, it is one thing he literally NEVER thought he would do. They had always been a no-go for him over safety.
Be it vans, trucks, or even forklifts, all of those 20 years we had both always felt safe on four wheels. As travelers here in Asia, we know of the prominence of scooters and their affordability. We had also done our research surrounding the safety of them. Bali is notorious for its risks and in hindsight we should have thought twice before trying it here given it was our first time.
Our quiet countryside residence in Thailand would have been a far better place to practice in hindsight (our AirBnb host offered to let us practice on theirs). But we procrastinated, didn't, and then here we were, ready and willing to join the mass ranks of scooter users in the beautiful area of Ubud. On day one it actually went quite well, despite the nerves. On day 2, the day of the accident, we were excited to get back on it initially.
It is important to note here that our AirBnb host actually refused us a bike initially when we told her it would be our first time. Yet when we were in a local restaurant which also rented bikes, we were told it was no problem. Eventually we got ours from a friend of our host, and needless to say, there was not exactly any paperwork or licence checks. But from what we understand, that is a fairly common occurrence here. We were not entirely comfortable with it and knew the risks but we decided to go for it anyway. Little did we know, but that turned out to be a very painful decision.
Read on for details on what happened, information about scooters in Indonesia, and things you can do to stay safe on the roads if you do choose to rent one, and THAT potential law change.
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Our motorcycle accident in Bali - how it happened
Only the day before the accident, Leon had posted on Instagram about getting on a scooter for the first time, feeling so proud that he had allayed his life-long fears to try it. Just look at the advantages too. Highly versatile, easy to rent, and a way of getting through traffic quicker. On top of that, here in Ubud (Bali), you can rent one for less than $4 a day. Win win right?
We were fine on the first day as mentioned earlier, albeit a little nervous and shaky. On Tuesday we were feeling much more confident and super excited, planning our YouTube video for a trip up to the Ceking rice terraces, the famous Bali swing, and whatever else we could find amongst this jungle paradise.
The traffic in Ubud is literally insane, so we decided to avoid the main route of chaos and take the only other option, the quiet backroads. I was worried about the traffic (ironically) so I thought it would be way easier. But.... these roads are tight, bendy, hilly and pot holed. We felt OK, it was a 30 minute ride and we were halfway through. It is so hard though; without a sat nav we could not anticipate the bends. So we were going slow!
We were going down a hill (on a particularly narrow stretch) and around a bend when it happened. There was a truck and bike behind us trying to overtake, and then as we got past the blind point of the turn there was an oncoming truck on the road and it didn't honk (this is usually standard practice to warn bikes). We had to swerve to dodge them, then the bike slipped; Leon ended up underneath the bike and Jenn went over the top. The injuries were bad and we were both in shock, but thankfully there was no concussion.
The van and bike did not stop, but others did. Someone stopped and moved the bike from the road, and we were offered water too. We walked to a local store a few hundred metres away, and called a taxi. We were both super stressed, in shock, and bleeding. Despite the language barrier the store was incredibly kind, getting us wipes and tissues, and they even recovered the bike from where it was parked for us.
We left the bike at the store and arranged for its owner to pick it up. All in all we had to pay $35 for the damage, and there was absolutely no issue with the owner. It all kind of felt normal, just as it did when we walked in to the pharmacy on the way back in the state we were in. We were really grateful for this, although it was a sign that perhaps they are used to dealing with these kind of accidents. The stats really don't lie.
We are so thankful it was not worse, with no broken bones, despite the intense pain of our injuries. It absolutely sucks as we are in our dream destination and can't do anything but rest up and recover. But we are so thankful we are alive!
Since it happened, on the few occasions we have had to venture outside, the people have been incredible too. Locals and tourists are acknowledging us wherever we go, showing such lovely care and compassion We honestly have not been able to walk for more than a few minutes without being approached by someone. Everyone has recommended treatment and offered support and advice too. It is humbling really, and just goes to show the incredible kindness and compassion that we often forget that most people do have!
Scooters and Bikes in Indonesia
According to the Indonesian National Police Traffic Corps (Korlantas Polri), there were 131 million registered motorcycles in Indonesia as of 2022. This means that approximately 60% of the population of Indonesia uses a motorcycle as their primary mode of transportation.
There are a number of reasons why motorcycles are so popular in Indonesia. First, they are relatively affordable. A new motorcycle can be purchased for as little as $1,000. Second, motorcycles are fuel-efficient. A motorcycle can get up to 50 miles per gallon, which can save a lot of money on transportation costs. Third, motorcycles are easy to maneuver in the congested traffic of Indonesia.
However, the risks associated with using motorcycles in Indonesia are clear; case-and-point in this post. Motorcycles are involved in a high number of accidents, and the roads in Indonesia are often poorly maintained. Always wear a helmet, try not to go too fast, and keep both hands on the handlebars at all times. And please do not use your phone (unless for sat nav).
First impressions of Indonesia, including our taste of Balinese cuisine, our Airbnb stay in Ubud and how it all got cut short after 2 days.
What we recommend you consider to avoid an accident on Bali's roads
⪢ High accident rates
Scooter and motorbike accidents are a significant cause of injuries and fatalities worldwide. In many countries, including Bali, they account for a large proportion of road traffic accidents.
⪢ Vulnerability
Riders of scooters and motorbikes are more exposed to the risk of injury compared to occupants of cars or other enclosed vehicles. The lack of protective barriers increases the likelihood of severe injuries in case of a collision.
⪢ Helmet usage
Wearing a helmet can significantly reduce the risk of head injuries and fatalities in scooter and motorbike accidents. Unfortunately, in many parts of the world, including Bali, helmet usage is not vigorously enforced or practiced consistently mainly by locals). That being said it is still a legal requirement in Indonesia, and police will pull over tourists without one.
⪢ Road conditions
Uneven road surfaces, potholes, and inadequate infrastructure can contribute to accidents involving scooters and motorbikes. In Bali, where the road conditions can be challenging, it's essential to exercise caution and adapt your driving style accordingly.
⪢ Traffic congestion
Bali, like many popular tourist destinations, experiences heavy traffic congestion. This can lead to increased risks for scooter and motorbike riders, such as rear-end collisions and sideswipes. In Ubud, trust us, it is madness out there!
⪢ Inexperienced riders
Scooters and motorbikes are often popular choices for tourists and inexperienced riders due to their affordability and ease of use. Lack of familiarity with local traffic rules and riding in unfamiliar environments can increase the risk of accidents, like it did for us sadly.
⪢ Impaired driving
Driving under the influence of alcohol or drugs is a major contributing factor in scooter and motorbike accidents. It impairs judgment, coordination, and reaction time, making accidents more likely to occur. Besides, it is totally ILLEGAL. Just don't do it, it really is not worth the risk.
⪢ Defensive driving
Practicing defensive driving techniques, such as maintaining a safe distance from other vehicles, using turn signals, and staying alert to potential hazards, can significantly reduce the risk of accidents.
If you are not comfortable driving a scooter, consider using Grab or another ride / taxi service in Bali. You can even get bike taxis which are super affordable and have experienced drivers who know the roads and the ways of the locals. Yes, you may suffer in the chaotic traffic if you do take this option, but after what we have experienced and also heard from others, we would sooner take our time and get to our destination later than take this risk again. That is just us, and we only hope it will not be you!!
MAJOR potential law change BANNING foreigners from renting vehicles on the island
Back in mid-March 2023, Bali's Governor Koster made a series of monumental announcements that proposed changes to the way in which foreign tourists travel in Bali.
This policy includes digital nomads and ex-pats and effectively bans any non-Indonesian from driving motorcycles, scooters or cars on the island, irrespective of whether they have an international or even local driving license.
“Those tourists have to travel, walk, and use cars to travel. It is no longer allowed to use a motorcycle or anything that is not from a travel agent.”
-Governor Koster
This is a monumental change for Bali, although it is currently still not written into law. As of now, tourists are ONLY permitted to rent vehicles from authorized agencies. This is particularly interesting as GoJek and Grab services, which are hugely popular, are NOT recognized as formal travel agents.
What you need to rent a bike in Bali
Despite the aforementioned announcement, currently from what we have seen, there is little change to what has been the status quo in Bali for many years. We actually compiled the list below before we found out about this new law, and as this post shows, things have yet to change. From what we have seen, no-one seems to be aware of it and bikes and scooters continue to be rented as they are. So please do check out our advice below, but be very aware that this may become null and void when the ban comes into full effect.
Please do check local government sources for up-to-date information before your visit.
⪢ Licences
A driving licence is required here in Indonesia, along with an International Drivers Licence which you must get in your home country. Even if your rental company does not ask, carry them on you at all times as if ever you are stopped by the police, they most certainly will.
⪢ Where to rent one
As of March 2023, tourists can only hire a motorcycle from a business that is registered with the relevant trade agencies or the Transportation Renting Association in Bali. While there are hundreds of companies that are part of the TRA in Bali, there are just as many informal operations renting motorcycles to tourists, digital nomads, and ex-pats in Bali.
Local residents who are not formally registered as members of trade agencies or the transportation renting association are not permitted to rent two-wheeling vehicles to foreign tourists. Unfortunately we only found this out after our accident!
⪢ Rental costs
This really depends on the strength of the scooter itself, but typically prices can range from 70-100k IDR per day for lower end bikes (110cc, i.e Scoopy bikes) to 150k IDR per day for bikes at 150cc. Prices may be offered at a discount for long-term rentals.
⪢ Insurance
It is important to ensure ownership / registration papers are with the bike at all times, but do not confuse this for insurance. This is not something that will likely be offered to you, so check with your personal travel insurance (if you have it) to see if you are covered. If not, you must do so, as it is now required by law.
⪢ Fuel
Fuel is very affordable and a full tank will set you back around $3 US. All Balinese villages tend to have roadside fuel stands, marked up in red and blue labels. There are only two options, Bensin or Pertamax, usually located outside of a shopfront or Warung (small privately owned restaurant).Bensin is yellow and Pertamax is blue Pertamax is slightly more expensive but better quality fuel, and is usually the default if you do not specify.
Alternatively you can top up at a Pertamina Gas Station, although this may be more expensive as it is not self-service, as with virtually all petrol stations in Asia.
NOTE: You will often find shelves filled with bottles of fuel outside stores too. Please be careful with this as from what we have heard the quality is questionable, it is more expensive, and often watered down.
⪢ Police
A good tip is to keep some loose change in your pocket, maybe 80 - 100k IDR. If the police do pull you over, usually they will check your documents. Be warned that you could expect a heavy fine if you are not wearing a helmet, but that to one side, usually they are just looking to make you a little nervous and extract a little cash.
⪢ Clothing
Most people tend to wear flip flops / thongs when using bikes; as Jenn and I did. In hindsight we would strongly recommend closed footwear as foot abrasions are debilitating and very uncomfortable! Long sleeve tops are also advisable, not just for extra protection if you fall but also to protect from the sun.
⪢ Back roads
As you have read already the back roads can be very hazardous for bike users here. The roads are hilly, full of twists and turns, narrow and pot holed. Visibility is also low on bends due to trees and overgrowth too so take particular care there. We would recommend sticking to the main drag if you are inexperienced.
⪢ Honking
Do not be alarmed if people honk at you, this is generally to let you know they are there (as opposed to irritation like in England and Canada). It is also best practice to honk on turns and blind bends, to alert people and oncoming vehicles.
⪢ Satellite navigation
One of our biggest regrets is not having a phone holder, which we strongly advise after our sombre lesson learned. It is not necessarily easy to get lost in a place like Ubud, which does not have many main roads in and out roads, but a sat nav will really help for anticipating bends which are not sign posted and can tend to come out of nowhere.
On the beachfront, with access to the resort pool & restaurant, this Airbnb offers a unique experience with a great central location in Kuta.
Our message
This has been such a traumatic experience for us and we really are just so grateful to be here to write this post and share what happened. We do not want to discourage anyone from riding scooters or bikes. While the accident rates are scarily high, it is important to remember that millions of people use them literally every day, including tourists, and they are fun and exciting. When you look at the statistics accidents account for less than 1% of the total amount of bike users in Bali.
You can have a great time riding scooters and sometimes accidents just happen. We survived, and we just hope to reach out and implore you to stay safe and take the very best of care, wherever you are in the world.
Have you had a scooter accident? Please do share your experience in the comments if you feel comfortable, and help us to raise awareness on bike safety. Take care out there!
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